Canlis is a Seattle institution. The restaurant itself was built by Peter Canlis in 1950. He chose a magnificent view location just three miles north of the city center, and, with characteristic vision, hired up-and-coming architect Roland Terry to make his vision a reality. Sixty years later, Peter Canlis’s architectural and culinary jewel is still going strong by the next generation of family restaurateurs, Mark and Brian Canlis. Together, the family has preserved the traditions of this famous landmark while adding their creativity and energy to the restaurant. In 2008, the family hired Jason Franey, who at that time was Daniel Humm’s executive sous chef at EMP in New York, to run their kitchen. Franey’s presence led to a departure from the traditional steaks, chops and sauced fish filets that made their restaurant a Seattle institution, and instead signified a shift toward the kinds of elegantly composed, modernist dishes that symbolizes the cuisine today. They used to have a seven course tasting menu which gave you the full taste of Franey's kitchen, and according to our waiter - this tasting menu might be back on popular demand. Instead I went with a four course menu and it was excellent. The dinner started with a trio of Amuse Bouches - all very flavorful and tasty. It was a great way to tease the appetite and my favorite was a little pastry filled with Gruyere cheese. One of the restaurants signature courses is Peter Canlis Prawns. The prawns are cooked to perfection and served with a sauce of dry vermouth, black garlic and lime. The flavors are sublime and compliments the lightness of the prawns perfectly. The next courses were Sunchoke and Hen Egg. My favorite was the Hen Egg - a slowpoached Hen egg with with watercress, fermented garlic, and vin jaune. It was so light and airy with a very silky texture and complimenting flavors. It is great course if you like egg. The next course was fantastic - a 14-day dry-aged duck breast, roasted whole and accompanied by orange marmalade, fennel purée and pearl onion brûlée. After a beautiful presentation of the whole roasted duck, a breast slice was served with the condiments. This is probably the best duck I've had to date. I have had Peking Duck in China and in many three star restaurants over the world but this one was perfect. The skin was perfectly crispy, almost a potato-chip crisp skin over rich meat that was savory and not too gamy. The saltiness of the skin worked perfectly with the fat from the duck. The black and white sesame seeds on the sweet-crispy-salty skin as well as the plums gives it a very Asian touch. The orange marmalade was sweet and piquant, rounding out the rich and sweet duck breast. It was delightful!! The dinner ended with a nice cheese platter and a light cheesecake dessert. Nothing spectacular but a good ending.
Canlis is a wonderful and historic landmark restaurant in the Pacific Northwest. It has a great wine list, the view from the restaurant is very scenic, the restaurant in itself still looks modern even though it is over 60 years old. Franey's cuisine is classy, well composed and feels modern. The service is attentive if somewhat stiff. All in all - if you are in Seattle, a visit to Canlis comes highly recommended...and make sure you order the duck - it is well worth it!
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